This is a simple story about taking my teenage son for a long slow walk in the hills of Tuscany. Not your usual mother and son adventure I must admit. Ned, who suffers from debilitating epilepsy, has struggled to go to school for several years. His life has been full of doctor’s appointments, endless medication changes and hundreds of seizures. Walking seemed the perfect way for Ned to experience Italy, regain some health and fitness and have a break from the constraints and demands of city life.
Our walk began at the end of Autumn, a beautiful time of year in Tuscany. The tourist season has slowed down, the olives are being picked and pressed, grapes have been harvested and the land is finally resting. And for people with epilepsy, the heat of the Tuscan summer has gone.
Our long slow walk was a 400km journey from Lucca to Rome on the Via Francigena. The Via Francigena is an ancient pilgrims route starting in Canterbury, England. It winds down through France and Switzerland into Italy. We chose the last section with picturesque hill towns around every turn, plenty of pilgrim accommodation, wonderful food, and if needed, medical assistance. In medieval times pilgrims on their way to the Holy Site of Christianity – Rome, used the Via Francigena. This old road was also the main artery for trading and military activity through the ages. It was the perfect walk for us!
Pilgrims on this journey historically carried a shell as an emblem; today’s pilgrim carries a ‘passport’, which is stamped at each stopover culminating in a signed certificate from the Vatican at the end of your journey. Having your card stamped proved to be a great motivator.
My walking companion is Ned, who I am sure is like most teenagers, not exactly jumping for joy at the prospect of walking 400kms but being a kind, and easy going boy, he relented and embraced my enthusiasm.
At the age of 11, Ned was diagnosed with a rare brain syndrome called Congenital Bilateral Perisylvian Syndrome. His speech is affected and he has issues with eating, drinking and elements of his learning, however his biggest challenge is intractable epilepsy. Ned has taken four, five, and even six drugs in different combinations morning and night for the past three and a half years and still had seizures. Before we started this journey Ned was experiencing up to ten seizures a day. He’d fall to the ground, incontinent, or become unconscious when eating or drinking. Due to the amount of medication, he dribbled. It was a tough time being a teenager, not being able to hang out with friends, ride bikes, go swimming, play sport, have sleepovers. His social life stopped but he never complained.
For a mother watching this happen to your son and not being able to stop it, continually searching to find an answer or help, forever trying to catch him before he falls, is heartbreaking. Taking a long slow walk was so enticing but also a big challenge and keeping him safe was the number one priority. Walking is the perfect way for anyone to see and experience a country and can give the body and mind the opportunity to heal, grow stronger as well as giving someone the chance to experience a sense of achievement – surely a tonic for everyone.
The beautiful walled town of Lucca was our starting point – well known as a walking town. It has a rich pilgrimage history, renowned for its art, music and culture, has fabulous food and also gave me a last chance to embrace the Lucchese art of strolling down Via Fillungo in the evening – window shopping of course. Our backpacks were already full!
Leaving through the gates of Porta Elisa heading towards Altopascio the route is well marked. Walking on paved paths for the first section it’s not long before you are walking through woodlands, oak and chestnut forests, past olive groves, vineyards and market gardens. Winding up and down the hills to the towns of Fucecchio, San Miniato, San Gimignano, Monteriggioni and into Siena, all with their amazing architecture and medieval histories. We watched the Tuscan pigs at play in the mud, listened out for hunters in search of cinghiale (wild boar), met mushrooms pickers with their wicker baskets full and practiced our basic Italian on very kind locals who were out walking their dogs.
On the Via Francigena you sleep in pilgrim’s accommodation in Convents and Monasteries, Hostels and Churches run by kind and generous Nuns, Sisters, Friars, Priests and volunteers. Payment is by donation or for a small fee. There are warm showers, comfy beds and sometimes the opportunity to share a meal with your hosts. There are also plenty of B & B’s and agriturismo accommodation on the way if that is more to your liking.
We ate many of our evening meals at local trattorias to enjoy the wonderful homegrown produce and immerse ourselves in the Italian way of life. In Tuscany, the food is an absolute highlight. With the cooler climate comes the rich autumn flavours: hearty meat and game dishes, bean soups, handrolled pasta, silky risotto, freshly picked porcini mushrooms and delicious, earthy truffles. There is also the newly pressed olive oil on the tables to dip your bread into. Ned’s favourites were hand made Pici pasta with Cinghiale ragu and Spaghetti Carbonara with Truffle oil- fantastico!
There was plenty of time to explore each towns rich history, it’s churches, which contain beautiful frescoes along the way but Ned made the comment early on in the walk after a seizure, “Mum, I don’t know where I’ve been or where I’m going”. It clarified for me what this walk was all about – about walking and experiencing nature, being in the fresh air, eating the local food and talking to locals and about just being together and enjoying each others company. The art, history and churches are for another time. Simple.
Our pace was slow. With a little under 10kgs in our backpacks, we covered an average of 13kms a day for a month. This allowed us time to wake when rested, enjoy a caffé and cornetto from the local bakery, buy pecorino cheese, focaccia and salami for lunch, and hit the track when ready. Ned did experience seizures along the way – plenty of them – but being just the two of us and with no time constraints and no other distractions it meant coping with each situation became easier. As time went on he got stronger and fitter, the seizures became fewer and fewer. By the time we arrived in Rome he was only having one seizure a day, mainly when eating.
From Siena we headed through the Val di Orca region. The views along this section of the Via Francigena are spectacular. Classic rolling Tuscan hills with stone villas and rustic farmhouses in every direction and avenues of Italian Cypress Pines standing erect. We stayed in the walled towns of Buonconvento, San Quirico d’Orcia, Radicofani and Abbadia San Salvatore where its two remaining Cistercian monks offered wonderful hospitality. We walked in the sunshine, walked in the pouring rain, walked with sticks. We ate our rustic lunch in deserted fields, befriended other walkers with dogs, wandered through private hazelnut groves eating chocolates and got lost once or twice – always with lots of laughter, conversation and the wonderful feeling of freedom.
Part of the route down the slopes to Acquapendente following the water of Lake Bolsena is on original roman stone roads. We soaked in the thermal hot springs of Bagnaccio and walked through the Etruscan city walls of Viterbo and Vetralla. As we neared Rome Ned was fitter and stronger and a much faster walker than I. He was motivated. Hitting the 100km sign came the realization that he was actually going to walk to Rome and nothing was going to stop him. We walked to Sutri past the 1st Century Amphitheatre, onto Formello through olive groves, past sheep grazing on pastures; we crossed rivers, wandered through nature reserves with wild horses and shared a meal with other pilgrims. Our final night on the outskirts of Rome was in Convento La Storta where the nun who welcomed us walked up to Ned and kissed him on the forehead. “Random Acts of Kindness” exemplified.
Heading down into Rome was truly exciting and the views from the ridgeline were a wonderful reward – but it was tough. Busy roads with no footpaths – Epilepsy and roads with cars don’t mix. It was a long and stressful section of the walk and as we stood on the corner across from the Vatican all the relief and emotion of finally making it hit Ned and he had a seizure. Luckily landing on his trusty backpack. Tired and dazed, Ned picked himself up and completed our journey – a true pilgrim!
A month of walking, covering 400kms on foot, is an amazing achievement for a young boy. To start and finish something has given Ned a great sense of satisfaction and probably, a great sense of relief. For me, it was a month of laughter, wonderful conversation, amazing scenery, delicious food and wine, seeing the real Tuscany and meeting such kind, caring Tuscans at work and play. But most of all it was an honour and privilege to walk along side such a kind, generous soul. Watching Ned put his backpack on and head down the track each day still leaves me in awe of his strength and resilience.
Sometimes life throws a curved ball when one least expects, and some are less desired than others but we can still enjoy the road ahead. I hope our journey on the Via Francigena sparks a little flame in others to take a long slow walk to better health and fitness – or just to have a break from everyday life with someone you love.
Buon Camino!
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