Our walk begins in the walled town of Lucca where walkers usually spend a couple of days exploring either on foot or by bicycle, the laneways and piazzas, the churches, art galleries and the many bars and trattorias that Lucca is famous for. With a rich pilgrims history, it is the perfect starting point for group from Australia, American and Canada, on the ancient pilgrims trail, the Via Francigena to Rome.
We were lucky to begin our walk with a special private pilgrims blessing from Padre Franco in Chiesa San Guisto. Walking the Via Francigena is not necessarily a religious pilgrimage, people walk to Rome for so many different reasons from just taking time out from their busy lives, a long awaited chance to explore local Italy, to savour the local Italian food and wine, to get fit and healthy and maybe lose a bit of weight (trust me, this is very achievable but you need to have a bit more will power than me!), a chance to spend time with friends and family, to challenge yourself, to be inspired or to just find your mojo again, and for some, it is a religious journey and many find contentment in walking the same path that thousands of pilgrims have before them over the centuries to the Holy City of Rome.
The first couple of days is all about getting used to walking long, getting acquainted with our backpacks, walking poles, drinking enough water and getting to know each. It is flat and not that scenic but the days are fun, interspersed with stopping for a café in a local bar, enjoying our picnic salads for lunch and getting into the habit of taking your shoes off at lunch and resting. We stay at a wonderful agriturismo (working farm) for the first two nights with a great pool, fabulous wine and delicious farm to table food, to get everyone into the swing of life on the trail. Our days normally start after a delicious breakfast at our accommodation heading off around 8.30am, so plenty of time to have a relaxed start to the day, even an early morning swim.
Our first hills lead up from the Arno River with fields of faded sunflowers, market gardens, into Fucecchio and then further up to San Miniato, the pretty hilltown renown for White Truffles and the perfect place to enjoy a White Truffle Degustation Dinner in the town square surrounded by all the locals.
After three days, we have our walking legs and we are ready for the 26km walk from San Miniato to Gambassi Terme. 360 degree views of the rolling hills of Tuscany, a picnic lunch along the trail, white gravel paths, wide open spaces and a gradual climb up to Gambassi past rows and rows of grapevines. In Italy, the towns are positioned on top of a hill for protection from oncoming armies – every town is on top of a hill. There is always a reward at the end of that hill though. A piazza with cold beer or Aperol Spritz or as in the case of Gambassi Terme, a very enjoyable afternoon at the Terme swimming in the thermal pool, relaxing on the sun lounges, interspersed with the steam room, sauna, ice foot treatment and ice bucket shower to sort out any aches and pains before joining the rest of the town in the piazza for aperitivo and dinner in a local pizzeria.
A morning cappuccino and pistachio cornetto (pastry) in the piazza of Gambassi Terme is always a great start to a perfect day. An easier day walking through oak tree forests and endless views of lush vineyards, stone villas, Italian cypress pines and ancient hill towns. A visit to the church in Pancole with its sanctuary to the ‘Divine Providence’ – oil, wine and flour so what better way to honour this Saint than to enjoy a lunch wine flight accompanied with local cheese, meats, freshly baked bread and freshly pressed olive oil. A visit to the silent monastery, winding our way past more rows of red grape filled vines and up through the stone archway into San Gimignano.
San Gimignano is always a highlight on the walk with its 13 towers, stunning Duomo with frescoes, a chance to climb the Torre with glorious views or to just sit in the piazza enjoying world famous gelato. Along with the history there are lots of tourists, lots of shops for people to explore, purchase at your peril, you have to carry what you buy (They do ship home though). Leaving San Gimignano behind we follow the pavement with wonderful views back to San Gimignano before turning off and walking on gravel and dirt trails out in the countryside, through shady forests and past olive groves and vineyards with wonderful views as we follow the path leading us to Colle Val d’Elsa with rest stops for our picnic lunch and afternoon macchiato along the way.
Colle di Val d’Elsa, the ancient hilltown dating back to 4AD. A town with a historic center on the top of the hill and the newer part below. Pottery, glassware and wine are the products of Colle and of course the food. An early evening explore around town, pre dinner drinks in the piazza before a wonderful evening at an Enoteca showcasing three Tuscan wines accompany the three course meal of traditional Tuscan fare. Dessert was 12-year-old balsamic vinegar on ice cream – wonderful.
Colle di Val d’Elsa to Monteriggioni is a beautiful day walk along the Elsa River, in the Parco Fluviale. A local secret we follow dirt tracks with lush green plantings, crossed little wooden bridges, hung onto ropes as we stepped on big boulder crossings, passed waterfalls before stopping at our swimming spot. Cold, thermal and blue, the water was incredibly refreshing and a highlight for all. Lots of laughter as we made our way towards the waterfall and spent time relaxing in the sun on the rocks. The local Italians started arriving en masse as we set off on our way on gravel tracks to Monteriggioni. Stopping for our picnic lunch under a shady tree, refreshing ice cold drinks at the little village of Strove and onto Abbadia Isola with its Monastery built in 1001. The incredible church adjoining the monastery was open with its frescoes still preserved from the 11th century with its stunning gold baptismal font the centrepiece. Gregorio treated us to a guided tour before crossing farmland to reach our hotel for the night. The large pool was a welcome treat on a 32-degree day as we sipped our Aperol Spritz on the daybeds before enjoying our final dinner of wonderful Tuscan food on the terrace.
Our final day walk to Siena after our delicious buffet breakfast and time to explore the walled town of Monteriggioni known for its medieval fortifications and watchtowers and views over the surrounding Chianti region. We climbed up along gravel tracks past ploughed farmland, vines, and olive groves. Stopping for shade along the way under big oak trees admiring the beautiful castles strategically placed so the Sienese army could be stopped on their invasion north. Morning tea at Marcello’s pilgrims stops for a rest and refreshments before climbing up some very big hills to finally get us to the gates of Siena. Down through the narrow stone streets to Piazza Del Campo, we have walked over 152km from Lucca to Siena, what a great achievement. We celebrated with beer and Neapolitan style pizza in Piazza Del Campo and our walkers are ready for the first rest day tomorrow.
Siena was filled with visits to the Duomo, wandering the alleyways, drinking coffee, eating gelato and enjoying pizza and pasta and a magical evening at the Italian Opera.
From Siena we enter the picturesque Val d’Elsa region with a 23km walk today to Lucignano d’Arbia enjoyed views back to Siena most of the day as we passed fields recently ploughed, summer planted crops of durum wheat for the fantastic Italian pasta, rows of Italian cypress pines, and white gravel paths. Stopping for lunch at the 12th Century fortified farm ‘Grancia di Cuna’ to take a rest and enjoy our Tuscan picnic, the little village of Quinciano with its beautiful villa and church, to our little Borgo at Lucignano d’Arbia surrounded by Sangiovese vines. Sunset views from the terrace then a dinner feast of wild boar with the parpadelle raghu and wild boar stew followed by tiramisu.
Lucignano d’Arbia to Buonconvento is an easy 15kms walk following the rolling hills with views of rustic stone villas perched on hilltops, rows of conifers, ploughed fields, the last crops of sunflowers, new green growth of lucerne hay, all while crunching on wide gravel paths. A visit to the historic centre of Buonconvento to enjoy our picnic lunch in the park then a walk up to our Agriturismo high on the hill with views in every direction. Aperol Spritz time in the piazza then a wonderful Tuscan dinner of Traditional Ribollita Soup, Pici home made spaghetti with Aglione (tomato and special garlic), Local Peposo a Veal stew cooked for a long time with red wine and black pepper and another Tiramisù.
Leaving Buonconvento after another fabulous homemade breakfast at our agriturismo, this time with donuts and apple cake making great fuel food for our 23km walk. Clear blue skies in the beautiful Val d’Orcia region, spectacular 360-degree views following white gravel trails up and down the hills. Views of Montalcino high on the hill, passing stone farmhouses ripe for renovation, past vineyards that make the regions famous Brunello di Montalcino wine. We stopped at my favourite winery for a wonderful guided tour of the cellar, followed by a glass of Brunello enjoyed with a prosciutto panini. Our afternoon walk, mostly uphill to the hilltown of San Quirico d’Orcia. A reviving gelato in town then time for a swim and relax by the pool before enjoying dinner on the terrace.
Leaving pretty San Quirico d’Orcia this morning after a visit to the Horti Leonini – the 15th century renaissance gardens and the local churches we follow the path that leads up high through the Val d’Orcia with views down the valley to Radifacofani, across to Pienza, Castiglione d”Orcia, Rocca d’Orcia and Montalcino behind us. Stone farmhouses, rows of conifers, wheat fields and oak trees providing a welcome bit of shade. Stopping at Vignoni Alto, the fort, a visit to a local artisan then down into Bagno Vignon i, the thermal spa town, for our morning coffee and gelato. We climbeddown to the local thermal baths hidden in the rocks for an enjoyable soak. We enjoyed our picnic lunch under a large oak tree before heading up again out onto the wide open trails, overlooking a patchwork of colours, before heading down to our agriturismo accommodation in a 13th Century farmhouse with 360 degree views of the Val d’Orcia.
H ow do we keep up our energy to walk all the way to Rome … Here is a sample. Our Tuscan meal tonight at our agriturismo in the heart of the Val d’orcia started with a Tuscan ribollita (soup made of vegetables from their garden with beans and lentils) we drizzled their own olive oil on top with some freshly chopped chilli. Next course was spaghetti made from their own wheat processed locally into flour then made into spaghetti in the little local village with homegrown tomatoes and their special sweet garlic they grow (aglione) then a wild boar stew (cinghiale) with fresh salad vegetables from the garden and to finish off we enjoyed vin santo, the local sweet wine, and biscotti (biscuits with pistachio) used for dipping just before eating. Deliziosa
Leaving Gallina this morning after our farmhouse breakfast in the garden we have 16.5km walk to Radicofani, the highest point in the Val d’Orcia. Surrounded by spectacular scenery all morning the rolling hills of Tuscany are disappearing as we head towards Lazio. A rewarding entrance to this pretty hill town with only 800 inhabitants, the piazza and shady garden with views down the valley of boundless hills and Mount Amaita was the perfect spot to enjoy our porchetta panini for lunch before heading to accommodation for an afternoon rest. This is a nice ritual, do our washing, shower, rest then early evening head out into the town to explore and enjoy a drink in the piazza before our local trattoria dinner.
Our longest walk is from Radicofani to Acquapendente which is 32kms. There are options if someone doesn’t feel like walking that far, there is the local bus that is a quick journey to the next town. We leave early after caffè and cornetto at the local bar heading down the slope on white gravel tracks. As the beautiful mist lifted over the hills the views back to the Rocca and down the valley are spectacular. We stop for water at Ponte e Rigo and our morning tea before continuing along the Puglia Valley past the prized corn and wheat fields of the Lazio region before tackling the slow climb to Porceno, the gateway to Lazio region stopping for our salad lunch then wandering down past cattle farms and back up to the hilltown, with its prominent Castle. After lunch we had our usual café stop for an ice cold drink or gelato before walking the final 6.5kms through woodlands, on roads, to finally reach the town entrance of Acquapendente. Known as ‘Green Jerusalem’ for its surrounding nature reserves and for its devotion, and spiritual destination. Aperol Spritz and beers in the piazza with the locals followed by pizza at il Borgo, a local favourite.
Leaving the city square this morning after our morning coffee and pastry at Bar Roma we had an easy walk on flat tracks past fields of potatoes, cut wheat fields, hazelnut groves and olives. Up into the pretty town of San Lorenzo Nuovo for our morning coffee then views of Lake Bolsena for the next 15kms. Climbingup through woodlands, back down past olive groves, then down along the narrow streets to the beautiful castle town of Bolsena with its shady, ancient alleyways. We are staying down on Lake Bolsena, with plenty of time for a swim in the fabulous hotel pool and a well-deserved rest day tomorrow.
Whilst the majority of the group enjoyed exploring the old town, four of us hired electric bikes and cycle the 70kms around the lake, the largest volcanic lake in Europe. Beautiful weather, great scenery, lots of stops for coffee, lunch at Pepe Nero in Capodimonte, gelato in Marta and some fun trail rides with turbo charged hill climbs and a 9km road ride downhill back to Bolsena. Sunset drinks on the lake then a delicious dinner right on the waters edge. Now we are ready to start our last seven days walking to Rome.
From Bolsena we follow the gravel then dirt trails past villas with views of Lake Bolsena and lush gardens, into the shady woodlands, past ancient horse troughs, out into fields and the famous Est Est Est vineyards. A picnic lunch in an olive grove before walking up the hill with Lake Bolsena on our right and the Dome of Montefiascone Cathedral front and centre. A visit to dFuk’s resting place was a highlight before heading up through the archway and corridor of umbrellas. Plenty of time to explore the town’s gems – the cathedral, crypts of Saint Lucy, Pilgrims monument and the Pope’s summer residence, before meeting for Aperitivo with half the town celebrating milestones. Dinner tonight was at a local trattoria with cold meats, two pastas, porchetta and roast potatoes and lots of Est Est Est wines. We are getting close to Rome with only six days walking left.
Montefascione to Viterbo is an easy 20kms walk today leaving via the Papal Palace gardens and the ‘Monument to Pilgrims’ with beautiful views over Lake Bolsena and an added caffè stop. Walking on ancient Roman roads, past kiwi fruit farms, hazelnut groves and onto the flat recently ploughed farmlands, picnic lunch in a field, the thermal pools of Bagnaccia, up into the ancient town of Viterbo. Pizza was a highlight in a local Viterbo favourite after our stroll around the old Borgo visiting two churches with frescoes, ancient pulpits, and ceilings painted in 3D. Walking home via the narrow alleyways back to our monastery stay, full and tired.
Today’s highlight was by far the Terme dei Papi, the ancient Roman thermal baths ‘The Baths of the Popes’ just outside of Viterbo. Now open to the public, the monumental pool is over 2,000 square meters and fed from the Bullicame water source. This is sulphurous-sulphate-bicarbonate-alkaline fluoride which is 52 °C, and has amazing therapeutic qualities – perfect for this group of pilgrims. It was hard to leave but we did need to walk another 16kms so we joined the Via Francigena on gravel roads past fields of newly planted cauliflowers being irrigated, down into oak woodlands, past groves of hazelnut and olive trees laden with green olives. We stopped for a rustic Italian lunch in a field with local Gorgonzola, roasted hazelnuts, pears and beetroot, salty focaccia and roast chickens cooked in lemon. We then followed gently undulating tracks but we were all tired so it was a welcome relief to reach our hotel and garden right on the Via Francigena. A delicious home cooked Italian meal (one of the best of the trip) with local wine was enjoyed by all as we joined in on a large family 18th birthday celebration – only in Italy!
Leaving our family run hotel on the outskirts of Vetralla this morning we walked into town where the local markets were on. We collected supplies before heading up on side roads then following beautiful wooded tracks in a lush forest with a carpet of native cyclamen and lots of wild boar tracks. Winding our way through hazelnut groves to Orlando Towers, the ruins of a former monastery. We enjoyed our picnic lunch amongst the hazelnuts before climbing up to the pretty hilltown of Capranica for our afternoon cafe stop. We walked through the historic old town with narrow alleyways, churches, and a seminary then down into lush woodlands following a stream with ferns, ivy and moss covered trees before the canopy opened in Sutri. A visit to the amphitheater, quarried in the stone, before being collected by our Nun and driven to our convent accommodation for the night. The beautiful nuns made a delicious dinner three-course dinner for us tonight, even with their own homemade gelato and their local wine.
Normally, 30kms is a big day of walking but by this stage everyone is super fit so it was a relaxing and very enjoyable walk. Recently ploughed fields, chestnut, walnut and hazelnut groves, oak woodlands and the Monte Gelato waterfalls. Most of the day was out in nature, with no other pilgrims on our trail. Stopping for shade under oak or cherry trees, passing barking dogs, horses and donkeys. It was sunny, but not too hot, a welcome dip in the cold water at the Gelato falls along with our smoked salmon lunch were highlights. We all tackled the very steep incline into the town of Campagnano di Roma with gusto, our reward, a cold-water fountain and an easy stroll through the old town. After hot showers at the only hotel in town, we headed to the town square for our usual Aperol Spritz or beer before our pilgrims dinner.
A Sunny sky today with lots of ups and downs through parklands and open farmland. Stopping off at Formello for our morning coffee then following the cobblestone streets of this pretty little town hidden away under an arch then down into wild parklands. Following gravel tracks that led us up and down and into shady lush forests. Stopp ing outside a sports field for our final Niçoise salad with Italian tuna before taking a VF deviation past Etruscan gravesites, ancient Roman thermal baths and medieval water systems. A climb up before reaching Isola Farnese and back on the tar road heading to our little oasis with the beautiful Sisters of Sacred Heart. They lovingly preparing our fabulous final pilgrim’s meal shared with singing, dancing and drinking games. A fitting end for our last night with an amazing group of fellow pilgrims.
Our final day from La Storta to St Peter’s Square, Vatican City, Rome . Starting are day early following the traffic headed into Rome, walking on sidewalks, then into parklands, popping out again in Roman suburbs before entering the wonderful park overlooking Rome. We began our journey in Lucca 24 days ago. We walked, explored and ate our way through the Tuscan hilltowns, swam in the river in Colle Val d’elsa and enjoyed a bit of luxury in Monteriggioni. We ate pizza, enjoyed the opera, and explored the alleyways and the amazing Duomo in Siena. We soaked in the thermal springs of Vetralla, stayed with the Nuns in Sutri and La Storta to finally wind our way down the avenue to arrive at St. Peter’s Square, Vatican City, Rome having walked over 480kms.
We walked through the most beautiful Italian countryside, eaten fabulous Italian food and drank far too much Italian wine but we walked as a group, we encouraged and supported each other and we have had lots and lots of laughs together. Along the way we showed how a bunch of Australians, Americans and Canadians could really shine a very bright light over the Via Francigena.
In the Greek New Testament there are two words for time. ‘Chronos’ refers to that which can be measured in seconds, hours, and days, the time by which most of us live our lives. ‘Kairos’ tracks the quality moments “where time seems to stand still and there is awe and wonder all around.” We have definitely lived in Kairos time.
Buon camino
Recent Reviews:
Where can we begin to describe the amazing adventure that is walking with Carolyn Travers, tour guide extraordinaire, from Lucca to Rome? 24 days and 480 kms of sheer joy ….. mixed in a with a bit of hard walking! Reading Carolyn’s Facebook and Instagram posts gives a small idea of how much fun we had with a small group of like-minded adventurers. This is the first time we have ever travelled with a tour group and we picked the best. We feel privileged to have been part of this journey and can only say to anyone considering doing the trip – you won’t regret it. Just follow Carolyn’s trip preparation guidelines (lots of walking beforehand) and you will have the opportunity to gain a rewarding and exhilarating feel for the countryside, food and culture that is Italy. Every night was an opportunity to celebrate the day’s journey. Carolyn planned a trip with varied local accommodation from agriturismo, to convents, monasteries and small hotels where we were treated to Italian culinary delights with wine and laughter. Not to forget the superb lunches of salads and antipasto bought daily from local markets and prepared fresh by Carolyn at our walking lunch spot each day. A special trip that will give us treasured memories forever. Grazie mille Carolyn!!!! Rita and Frank
My husband and I recently joined Walk Local Italy on a walk from Siena to Rome in September 2022. We had a truly magnificent time, and consider the trip “one of the best holidays we’ve been on”. The information provided before the trip with respect to gear and training were very helpful and then on the trip we had a clear idea of what we were doing every day. Carolyn ensured the group moved at a good pace, with time to take photos, stop for a rest/coffee/gelato and provided the most delicious picnic lunch every day (this was a real highlight). The accommodation was all good and the meals terrific. But I think the best part was the group, the places and landscape and just the journey itself. Thank you so much Carolyn and please count us in for Lucca to Siena in 2024. Rachel and Simon
We joined Walk Local for the Siena to Rome section of the walk. We had a marvellous adventure hiking through the beautiful Italian countryside. The scenery is outstanding from vistas over the Orcia Valley to narrow streets in ancient towns and villages. Our leader and guide, Carolyn Travers, took us to places most travellers would not visit including thermal baths, the best vineyards, pastoral agriturismo, and medieval villages. We sampled a variety of Tuscan dishes and became very accustomed to sumptuous dinners of primi, secondi and dolci. The highlight of the day was the picnic lunch brought by Carolyn – each day different and each day delicious. We have hiked the Camino Frances in Spain, the Way of St James in France and a section of the Via Francigena in northern Italy. This trip was by far the best thanks to a superb leader and such a wonderful group of fellow pilgrims with whom to share the adventure. John and Denise
Comments